Italian Lamb Ragu Recipe

I’ve written up a slowly cooked lamb ragu with pappardelle and pecorino for my Lamb pasta recipes collection, read on to learn more.

I still get a little giddy thinking about this slow cooked lamb ragu, where a big piece of lamb shoulder breaks down and clings to wide pappardelle, every forkful somehow richer than the last. I call it comfort without trying too hard, loud and savory, the sort of dish that makes people quiet and then reach for more.

If you like exploring Lamb Pasta Recipes, this one surprises you, it’s not fussy but it feels important, like a meal that remembers family dinners but also wants to be impressive. I promise you’ll want to eat it faster than you thought.

Ingredients

• Lamb shoulder: Rich in protein and collagen, gives deep meaty flavor and silky texture.
• Extra virgin olive oil: Healthy monounsaturated fats, adds fruity aroma, helps brown meat and veg.
• Pancetta or guanciale: Cured pork adds porky saltiness and fat, boosts umami and mouthfeel.
• Onion: Caramelizes sweetly, gives body and natural sugars, adds savory depth.
• Garlic: Punchy aroma, small amounts add savory bite and aromatic lift.
• Red wine: Acid and tannins balance the ragu, deepens flavor and richness.
• Crushed tomatoes: Provide sweet acidity, body and tomato umami, anchors the sauce.
• Pecorino Romano: Salty sheep cheese, sharp finish, grassy tang, great for finishing.

Ingredient Quantities

• about 2 lb (900 g) boneless lamb shoulder, cut into large chunks, give or take
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp unsalted butter
• 2 oz (60 g) pancetta or guanciale, diced, optional
• 1 large yellow onion, chopped
• 2 medium carrots, peeled and diced
• 2 ribs celery, diced
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 1 cup (240 ml) full bodied dry red wine
• 28 oz (800 g) canned crushed tomatoes
• 1 cup (240 ml) beef or chicken stock
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) whole milk
• 2 fresh rosemary sprigs
• 4 fresh thyme sprigs
• 1 bay leaf
• pinch red pepper flakes
• 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 12 oz (340 g) dried pappardelle pasta
• 1/2 to 3/4 cup (50 to 75 g) grated Pecorino Romano
• small handful fresh parsley, chopped, optional

How to Make this

1. Pat the 2 lb boneless lamb shoulder dry and season with 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt and 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil and 2 tbsp butter in a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the pancetta or guanciale if using and render until crisp, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

2. Brown the lamb in batches so it sears instead of steams, about 3 to 4 minutes per side, dont crowd the pan. Transfer browned pieces to a plate.

3. Lower heat to medium, add the chopped onion, diced carrots and celery to the pot and cook until soft and starting to color, about 8 minutes. Stir in 4 crushed garlic cloves and 2 tbsp tomato paste, cook 1 to 2 minutes until the paste darkens and smells nutty.

4. Pour in 1 cup full bodied dry red wine to deglaze, scraping up browned bits from the bottom, and reduce by about half, this adds lots of flavor so dont rush it.

5. Return the lamb and pancetta to the pot, add the 28 oz crushed tomatoes, 1 cup beef or chicken stock, 1/4 cup whole milk, 2 rosemary sprigs, 4 thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf, a pinch of red pepper flakes and the reserved juices. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low, cover partly and simmer very gently for 2 to 2 1/2 hours until the lamb is falling-apart tender, skim excess fat occasionally.

6. When the lamb is tender remove the rosemary and thyme sprigs and bay leaf, shred the meat with forks and stir the shredded lamb back into the sauce. If sauce is too thin, simmer uncovered to reduce, if too thick add a splash of stock or reserved pasta water.

7. About 8 to 10 minutes before serving, bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil and cook 12 oz dried pappardelle until just shy of al dente. Reserve about 1 cup of pasta water then drain the pasta.

8. Add the pappardelle to the ragu, toss gently over low heat, adding reserved pasta water a little at a time to loosen and coat the noodles. Stir in the cooked pancetta if used and the remaining 2 tbsp butter for richness.

9. Stir in 1/2 to 3/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano until the sauce is creamy, taste and adjust salt and pepper. Finish with a small handful chopped parsley if you like, and a little extra grated Pecorino on top.

10. Serve immediately on warmed plates, with extra cheese and black pepper. Leftovers improve after a day, and it freezes well, so dont be shy about making extra for a crowd.

Equipment Needed

1. Large heavy pot or Dutch oven (5 to 6 qt) for searing and slow braise
2. Large slotted spoon to remove pancetta and skim fat
3. Tongs for turning lamb pieces while browning
4. Wooden spoon or heatproof spatula for stirring the ragu
5. Chef’s knife and cutting board for veg and trimming meat
6. Measuring cups and spoons for wine, stock, milk and seasonings
7. Large pasta pot and colander for cooking and draining pappardelle
8. Two forks for shredding the lamb
9. Fine grater or microplane for Pecorino Romano
10. Ladle or large serving spoon for tossing and plating

FAQ

Italian Lamb Ragu Recipe Substitutions and Variations

• Lamb shoulder: boneless beef chuck (same long braise, similar texture), pork shoulder (a bit sweeter but works great for slow cooking), lamb shanks (use bone in and braise longer for extra depth)
• Pancetta or guanciale: streaky bacon (easy swap, same salty smoky punch), smoked turkey bacon (lower fat), sautéed mushrooms like cremini or porcini for a vegetarian option
• Crushed tomatoes: canned whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand or blended; tomato passata (smoother sauce); diced tomatoes plus an extra tablespoon of tomato paste to thicken
• Pappardelle: tagliatelle or fresh fettuccine (same wide ribbons), rigatoni or ziti (tube shapes that trap ragu), wide egg noodles if you want a homier feel

Pro Tips

– Pat the lamb really dry and brown it in true batches, don’t crowd the pot. A good crust is flavor you can’t fake, and if the pan steams the meat it wont develop that deep caramelized taste.

– Don’t rush the wine reduction, scrape up all the browned bits as it cooks down. That concentrated liquid is where most of the ragu’s depth comes from, so let it shrink until it tastes assertive, not boozy.

– Add the milk late and warm it a little first, or ladle in a bit of hot sauce to temper it, so it blends smooth and wont separate. Finish the dish off with the butter and Pecorino off the heat for a silky, glossy sauce.

– Save and use the pasta water, add it slowly while tossing the pappardelle so the sauce clings to the noodles. If the stew is too fatty, chill briefly and skim the solidified fat, leftovers actually taste better the next day and freeze great.